Camping in Grand Staircase-Escalante: Ultimate Travel Guide

I recently went on a camping trip in Grand Staircase-Escalante with just me and my 16 month old toddler. We camped in my car on some BLM land, hiked some incredible hikes, and had a blast. Escalante is a place I highly recommend if you’re looking for a trip a little off the beaten path.

Camping Spot

Like I mentioned, we did dispersed camping on BLM land. Dispersed camping is when you camp on public land, not in a designated campground. Some pros are that it’s free and you don’t have to camp next to anyone if you don’t want to. Some cons are that there aren’t usually any amenities like bathrooms, showers, or RV hookups.

I will include a direct pin to the BLM land we camped at, but it’s a huge open desert area just off of Hole in the Rock Road. It’s only 6 minutes from Escalante so really convenient if you want to go into town to get food or visit the Escalante Visitor Center.

Getting There

As you are traveling on Highway 12 nearing Escalante, you will turn onto Hole in the Rock road (The road starts at Highway 12 so you can only turn one way). Quickly make your first right and drive into an open field where you will see lots of RVs, trailers, and tents. You can camp anywhere–we drove a few minutes in and found a nice spot away from most people.

You can also continue down Hole in the Rock Road as there are other dispersed campsites. The road is a dirt washboard so it is best to have a 4-wheel drive, especially after it has rained. This is the road you take to head down to the slot canyons.

Hikes

Two of my absolute favorite hikes are in Escalante: Peek a Boo Slot Canyon and Lower Calf Creek Falls. Not only is there great camping in Grand Staircase-Escalante, but also incredible hiking.

Peek a Boo Gulch

Trailhead: (37.481407, -111.216655)

There are many slot canyons in Escalante. Peek a Boo has a little more room and isn’t as technical as some of the others. There is a 15 foot “climb” at the start (or end depending on which way you go through) that can be difficult. I wouldn’t recommend taking little kids unless you are confident in your scaling abilities and have someone to help you raise and lower them.

There are a few different places you can park to hike in. We did a longer route that allowed us to hike along the rim for a while before dropping down in to the wash before the slot canyon. I have also done it the shorter way and probably prefer that simply because of the heat.

After walking in the wash for a half mile or so, you will come up on the entrance to a couple of different slots. There is a sign but I don’t think it’s very clear. Peek a Boo is straight ahead and you will know it because of the climb required to get inside (See the first picture below). You can also continue right inside the wash to head on to Spooky Gulch.

Getting kids up the climb was tricky. We had a 5 year old, a 3 year old, and a 15 month old. My friends’ 5 year old didn’t have much trouble. There are Moki steps to help get you up to the first level, and then it’s just scrambling from there. For the 3 year old, my friend climbed up to the first level (pictured) and I handed him up. Then she helped him up to the next little bowl, and climbed up after him and so on. I just put my toddler in my soft carrier and made it up no problem. It did help our boys were good listeners and didn’t fight us going up.

We came down the same way so we pretty much did the same thing but in reverse. She would climb down a ways and I would lower kids to her. I again carried my baby down in my soft carrier.

**We are both rock climbers and felt comfortable doing this. I wouldn’t consider it really safe or even recommend it if you have young kids and scrambling makes you at all nervous. Better safe than sorry!**

Lower Calf Creek Falls

Trailhead: (37.793186, -111.413820)

Alltrails Link

It may surprise you that there is a 130ft waterfall hiding in the middle of the hot desert, but the oasis is there and it’s spectacular. If you’re willing to hike about the long 6.7 miles (round trip), you will be rewarded with a nice place to cool off and an incredible view. Not to mention the towering red cliffs alongside you as you’re hiking in.

There is a $5 fee to park at the trailhead. There are picnic tables and campgrounds all around as well. You start off hiking on the road and then quickly move onto rock and sand. There is not a ton of shade so come prepared with a lot of water, sun coverage, and snacks. It’s a long hike that Alltrails rates as moderate, but definitely worth it.

We started hiking around 3:30pm. It was hot so I wet my shirt and my toddler’s shirt. By the time we got to the waterfall, the pool was totally shaded. The water was cold and felt great. My toddler played in it for a good 25 minutes. He was cold after so I was glad I had dry clothes for him. The hike back felt great because it was in the shade. I thought the hike back was a little harder and was grateful not to be doing it in the heat of the day. If you do hike it back in the afternoon, I recommend wetting your shirt or hat to help keep you cool.

Devil’s Garden

Trailhead (38.8039, -109.6137)

Alltrails Link

This is a great spot to hit up if you have young kids who love to play in the sand or climb on rocks. You can hike the 1 mile loop or just sit and play in one spot. There are so many unique rock formations and hoodoos and because of the large rocks, it’s pretty easy to find shade. I actually haven’t been here, I had to go into town and get gas but the friends I met up with did make a stop here and said it was really fun.

Going into Town

I went into town to get gas and ended up hanging out longer than expected. Escalante isn’t big, but there are some fun things to do. I went to the Visitor Center where I was able to ask some questions and pick up a souvenir. Then I went over to Nemo’s Drive Thru and got a really yummy hamburger and fries. They have outdoor seating and I just stuck my toddler’s Bumbo seat right on the table so we could eat together. I got there right at 11am when it opened and was the first one in line. As soon as we got our food, there was a long line and a lot more people. Seems to be a pretty popular place!

Even though it was only April, it was pretty hot so I decided to find a shady park to lay out our blanket in and play in the cool grass. We went to Escalante Lion’s Park and had a great time. There was lots of trees and grass, a pavilion, and a playground. We spent around an hour and a half here.

Dogs

Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument is dog friendly. Everywhere we went allowed dogs, but they do need to be on a leash. Just remember it’s in the desert and very hot in the spring, summer, and fall. Be sure to plan ahead and bring plenty of water for your pup. If you plan on bringing your dog in the slot canyons, I highly recommend a harness that has a handle. We used the Ruffwear Webmaster and it was the perfect solution to helping him up and over the many obstacles.

Tips

• There isn’t great service when camping in Grand Staircase-Escalante. I had a little bit at our camp spot and when I went into town, but most areas are dead zones. Make sure you share your itinerary with a friend or family member who is staying behind. I also recommend bringing some kind of GPS locator to contact help in case of an emergency. I had my Garmin InReach Mini and used it to text my husband throughout our trip.
• There aren’t a ton of gas stations outside of Escalante so be sure to fill up before you get low. There are gas stations in Escalante, but the gas prices are fairly high.
• Be wary of traveling here in the summer. It is the desert and can reach temperatures up to 120°F. Be sure to come prepared for the heat and plan things in the shade and possibly indoor activities in the middle of the day.
• Be careful of the Cryptobiotic soil. It’s the dark crust on the desert sand that is its own ecosystem that allows things to grow in the harsh environment. Stay on the trail and be careful not to walk on it. Teach your kids to do the same. Remember to familiarize yourself with Leave No Trace Principles.

If you want to read more about my camping trip in Grand Staircase-Escalante with my 16 month old son, check out this post! I include our sleeping arrangements, tips for camping/hiking in the desert, food we ate, and a complete gear list.